Pet Insurance
10:54 am | No Comments » |
Okay, so I am back after a summer hiatus. One of the biggest things that I face on a daily basis (several times over) is clients who hesitate about treatment for their pet because they have concerns about the money they will have to spend. Now there are a few categories of these clients but the majority are those who really want to do what they can for their pet but really do not have hundreds of dollars to spend on spur of the moment. I have spent countless hours counselling owners who just can’t afford it and it breaks my (and their) heart because there are several outcomes from this: 1. the pet does not get adequate treatment or diagnostics to figure out what is going on and we spend a lot of time guessing and the animal does not get better; 2. in the case of an emergency (or not), the animal gets euthanized. We have to do what is best for our animals but the reality for most people is that you also have to do what reasonably fits into your life and going $700.00 in debt for your cat with urinary tract blockage may not be in your best personal interest. In many cases this could be avoided if the owner had opted for medical insurance for their pet. There are many different options now in pet insurance and many different companies that offer it. There are basic plans that cover just emergencies to more comprehensive ones that cover routine health care like vaccines and dentals as well as cases of illness or emergency. The clients who have health insurance are happy to have it when they need to use it. Although with most plans you pay a deductible, it is nothing compared to the cost of a $2000.00 surgery or in-hospital care if your pet gets sick. And you don’t have the stress of thinking about money or need to take money into account when deciding what is best for your pet. Of course, it is like any insurance, it can feel like you are just throwing your money away if you have a healthy animal but think of it like house insurance-you’re pretty glad to have it if your house burns down even if you paid in for 25 years and had no incidents. If you are considering getting a new puppy/kitten many plans will offer a free trial for a number of weeks (you may get this if you adopt from a shelter or breeder) so you can try it out. Ask at your clinic when you go in for your first appointment and get them signed up early. When deciding what plan you want ensure that you ask lots of questions to avoid surprises. You want to know exactly what is covered and for how much money a year, what is considered a preexisting condition, that the breed you have isn’t excluded for certain ailments, whether you pay and then get reimbursed, how your clinic handles claims, how much deductible you pay, what their customer service is like, would you be “cut off” if your dog developed a chronic condition/disease after you had the insurance and probably more that I am not thinking of. The point is, just as if you are buying insurance for yourself, do your homework. Insurance may not be just for young dogs. If you have a healthy older dog you will likely still be eligible-and just like older people, older dogs have more problems than young ones. So check out on-line and at your vet clinic you will be surprised at the number of options and how beneficial this will be for you and especially for your pet.
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June 25, 2008
thunderstorm anxiety
10:50 am | 1 Comment » |Question:
My dog is terrified of thunder storms. He shakes and pants and continuously paces, sometimes for hours, and there’s just no comforting him. Sometimes I worry that he’s just going to drop with the anxiety of it all. Is there anything I can give him to help calm him?
Answer:
This is a very common question/problem this time of year especially. Ideally, we would like to be able to treat these cases without using drugs but this can be difficult for a number of different reasons: 1. although what we see and hear is noisy, the initial stimulus for the anxiety may be something subtle like leaves rustling or lowered barometric pressure that are pretty hard to mimic; 2. a certain amount of fear is normal (survival instincts) but this may be enhanced either by owners response to the dogs fear thus reinforcing it or the dogs natural level of anxiety. So, in saying that, it’s a good idea to start with what we call progressive descensitization. So in a controlled environment, play a CD of the scary sound and have fun or treat your dog while this is going on. Start out low and work to higher levels as long as there is no fear response. This will be a very gradual process and should be done at least once daily. This also assumes that what your dog is fearful of is the noise. There are drugs that can be used the problem around here is that thunderstorms happen fairly infrequently and unpredictably that we want a drug that can be used spur of the moment and start working right away. Some anti-anxiety medications can take 2-3 weeks to start working. This is fine if in an area where thunderstorms happen all the time but not really appropriate for around here. A nutriceutical (not really drug, more nutritional supplement) that could be tried is called Kalm Aid. It is over the counter and works best if given before the anxious behaviour starts. It’s tryptophan so it gives the same effect that we have after our huge turkey dinner. Then there are drug, drugs which vary in their effects depending on what class of drugs, how they work and how your animal responds to it. These are prescription. Sometimes using drugs to help calm and behaviour modification at the same time can have the best effect.
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June 2, 2008
Letting cats outside
10:14 am | 1 Comment » |Question:
I have two cats one is 2 the other 3, they have been indoor only cats since we brought them home as kittens. Both are itching to get outside and I am tempted to let them. They have NOT been declawed so can defend themselves. However, after being kept inside all this time, will they come back home should they decide to go exploring away from home at this age and length of time being kept indoors?
Answer:
Hi there, cats really have some sixth sense of direction. Likely they will limit themselves at the beginning, anyway, just because they are uncertain, then once they get some confidence and know where they are going they will start to roam. An alternative can be using a harness and leash to give them some outdoor time but yet restricts their roaming. This can be a good option for some cats and is just enough outside time to get it out of their system. Do not leave them out unattended with a leash on.
If you do choose to let them roam free, I would not be so worried about them making it back home as I would what they may encounter while they are outside. We now know that cats who are kept inside, on average, live longer, healthier lives. A few things they can encounter are: other cats, cars and wild animals. Meeting other cats can result in fights causing abscesses and disease transmission like respiratory viruses, feline leukemia and feline aids (or FIV). Meeting up with a car can have obvious consequences-I have seen a lot of very sad and distraught people resulting from this. As well it may be wise to think about whether neighbors will appreciate your cat digging in and likely using their garden, yard and their child’s sandbox as a litter box. If you do decide to put your cats outside (and I know some cats just have this innate desire to roam) you should have them fully vaccinated including feline herpes, calicivirus, panleukopenia, chlamidia, leukemia and rabies (there is no good vaccine for FIV). Also treating them for fleas and worms will become more important not just for their safety but to prevent disease transmission to people. Roundworms, in particular, come out in your cat’s feces and incubate in the ground to become infective. Once they get in the ground, they are there for 5 years just waiting for some unsuspecting child to play in that spot and then put their hands in their mouth (that never happens!). These worms CAN cause trouble in people, not every time, but they can. So deworming is a public health issue (that goes for dogs too) and so as a conscientious pet owner this would be your responsibility. And one last thing to consider is that cats are ferocious hunters, by nature, and are an introduced species into this part of the world. In other words, they are unnaturally a top predator. There is evidence that domestic house cats do not hunt for food but rather for the sport of it. I realize it doesn’t seem like starlings and mice are ever going to go extinct, but there are some sensitive species in this area (e.g. plovers and flying squirrels); it is something to consider.
On the upside, cats that are outside are more active, tend to be less overweight, tend to be happier when they ARE inside, have fewer troubles with urinary tract infections, have fewer behavioural issues and you won’t have to clean the litter box as often. So as with most issues there are pros and cons. You need to decide what works for you and your cat, where you live (high traffic?) and where your cat would be happier; that is the ultimate goal after-all.
There are many downsides to putting your cats outside, but in terms of them coming home, there is no doubt that they will be able to drag that mouse right to your door in just the right spot for you to step on it as you go for the morning paper.
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May 18, 2008
those pesky pests-what will work for you?
10:24 am | No Comments » |It is that time of year again when we have to think about trying to keep those pain in the neck pests off of your pets-fleas, ticks, intestinal worms, heartworm. There are so many different pests and so many different products to keep them away. What you need really depends on where you live and your pet’s lifestyle. My first thought is don’t be so quick to reach for the products sold in places other than your veterinarian. I have seen countless people who have spent their money on these products only to then grace our doors with their dog or cat who is still infested with fleas and they need to spend yet more money. Essentially, you get what you pay for. So here is a run-down of the common veterinary products that are out there and the major differences between them. These are in no particular order and is not an endorsement of one over the other. For specific advice on your situation you should speak to your veterinary team.
1. Sentinel: Dogs. Monthly pill which keeps fleas from reproducing but does not kill adult fleas. Also does heartworm and intestinal worms. Good for PREVENTION of an infestation in your house and yard but you still may see adults occasionally. Must be taken with food to be effective.
2. Interceptor: Dogs and cats. the same as Sentinel but without the flea control. This can be used for year round deworming and then during the flea season you can switch to Sentinel or use one of the topical flea/tick products in addition to Interceptor.
3. Advantage: Dogs and cats. Applied directly to the skin and stays in the fat layer. Very effective flea killer if applied correctly and every month. Fleas do not need to bite to be killed so good for animals with flea allergy. Takes about 12 hours to distribute over your animal but starts killing right away. Waterproof once dry.
4. Advantage Multi: Dogs and cats. Advantage plus stuff that goes in the blood stream for heartworm, intestinal worms and ear mites (and a bunch of other stuff that you generally don’t need on a regular basis).
5. Advantix: Dogs only. TOXIC to cats when wet. Advantage plus another drug that wards off and kills ticks. Does aim to prevent attachment of ticks but it is not quite 100% effective so in heavy infestation areas you may see the occasional tick engorged on your dog. This is where Lyme vaccine comes in. Stays in the fat layer of the skin, and once dry is waterproof (and safe for cats).
6. Revolution: Dogs and cats. Applied directly to the skin. Kills fleas (not as quickly as Advantage but does kill), prevents heartworm, treats intestinal worms and ear mites. Also will kill ticks after they have been feeding on your dog/cat for 24-48 hours. Although this won’t prevent the transmission of Lyme disease (which is where your vaccine comes in) it will prevent that huge engorged pregnant female from laying her 6000 eggs in your yard because she will die when she falls off. This drug goes completely systemic (in the blood) so works a bit differently than the advantage products; the critters must bite before they die.
7. Ovicollar: Dogs and cats. Works the same way as Sentinel in that it prevents fleas from reproducing. One collar for dogs last for 8 months, and cats last for 12 months. Is an easy and effective solution especially for outdoor cats; that one flea they drag home won’t cause an infestation in your house and the immediate yard environment. You may still see adult fleas though.
8. Program:Dogs and cats. Birth control for fleas. Cats get a 6 month duration injection, dogs get a monthly pill taken with food. The same drug as in Sentinel (so it doesn’t kill fleas) but without the heartworm and intestinal worm protection.
Fleas can be a real pain. There is no doubt that buying an effective flea preventative and starting and continuing through the whole flea season is way more effective than having to treat an outbreak. The products we have now are awesome compared to what we used to use: powders, sprays, mouses, shampoos and now when you treat your animal you treat your house too. These products need to be used monthly, be applied/given according to instructions and given to all pets in the house to be effective. Usually when people come back saying the product hasn’t worked they most often haven’t used it correctly. So find our from your veterinary team what will be best for your pet and stay pest free this season.
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May 6, 2008
Heartworm
12:30 pm | No Comments » |Question:
Just curious to know how prevalent heart worms are in this area? Do you see many cases per year, a few, or are we treating to keep the area free from the problem?
Well this is a question with good timing given that mosquito and thus heartworm season are upon us. The short answer to your question is no, heartworms are not prevalent in this area and in 6 years I have never seen a case of heartworm. But because I like to hear myself talk (or watch myself type) I am going to give you the long answer.
So let’s start with the basics: What is heartworm? This is a parasite which is transmitted by mosquitoes. That means that a normal mosquito bites an infected dog/cat, sucks up the larval form of the parasite with the blood meal, carries it until it bites the next animal then injects the larva into the blood stream (for sake of simplicity), thus infecting another animal. The larvae travel through the blood, to the heart where they mature into adults and cause heart failure. This process takes about 6 months. Both cats and dogs are susceptible to heartworm infection but dogs are at a much greater risk in most places.
So is it prevalent here? No. But…it is all around us: all of the USA, and all parts of Canada west of New Brunswick have heartworm. Given that we have a huge influx of tourists and summer residents and many people that go “south” with their pets, there could be, at any given time, one or more dogs in this province that are potentially infected with heartworm. All you need is the mosquito to carry it from their dog to yours (and we all know there is no shortage of those). Recent information that I have been given is that there was a positive case in Digby last year from someone who had moved from Ontario. And there was a positive case in NB from a dog who had never been anywhere but their own backyard. Does that mean it’s coming? Maybe. Is it worth the risk? Not likely given prevention is easy, extremely effective, and a lot easier on your dog and wallet than treating.
So to answer the last part of your question, no, we are not giving preventative medication to keep the area free of heartworm because we can’t keep it from coming anymore than we can stop mosquitoes from crossing the border. But you can rest assure that if the infected mosquito bites your dog, the medication will kill the larvae and then not only does your dog not get sick but he won’t be a reservoir for passing it to the next mosquito, to next the next dog and so on…get my drift. If that mosquito bites an infected, unprotected dog than it’s a whole different story. The degree of heartworm breakout would certainly be at less if all dogs were on prevention and we wouldn’t get the epidemic of the proportions in the USA where there is no question that protection is essential for preserving the life of your dog.
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April 29, 2008
coccidia in a dog
3:27 am | 2 Comments » |Question:
In two weeks we are finally getting our new puppy! We’ve waited a very very long time.Today my Breeder called and said, (not my litter but her other one) the dogs have Coccidia.The stool was negative but they are treating it with pills for 10 days. Within hours the sick puppy was fine. The breeder said they probably all have it and all will be treated. When I get my puppy I have 72 hours by contract to give back the puppy (I won’t be able too, Oh God) I know all puppies have worms, etc. (my breeder’s place is spotless) members in good standing etc. Do you think it’s possible if the dog is otherwise healthy as she says, there would be NO reason NOT to take it? Will there be any lifelong affects for the dog? Will it lower it’s immune system or will I have to constantly be checking tests stool samples. Will it be safe for the dog to play with kids. What about my other dog Tiger? Will he get it? How do I protect him?
Answer:
Congrats on getting your new dog (well soon). I did have
a look at the website and it certainly looks as if you are buying from
a responsible breeder who has full discloser and cares about her dogs
AND the people who adopts them (usually a good sign). I am sorry that
the breeder has gotten coccidia into her kennels as this can be hard
to get rid of in a kennel situation. She obviously is not trying to
hide anything from you as she has already called to tell you the dogs
may be infected. Certainly treating all the dogs is the correct thing
to do. There is really no reason to suspect that this puppy is
otherwise unhealthy and there is no reason to believe that this puppy
will have problems down the road even if he/she does have coccidia. It is very hard to prevent young puppies, who are naturally immunocompromised, from getting coccidia
especially in a high density situation. Having said that you do want to be careful
because it can be transmitted to your other dog although the symptoms would be much less severe as an adult. The type of coccidia that animals typically get is not transmisable to humans. There are some forms that are so if you have immunocompromised individuals in your house than you should have the specific type of coccidia identified (cryptosporidium is the only one that can be passed to humans and is rare in dogs). The easiest way to avoid contamination of the environment is to clean all feces up immediately. But you should be doing this anyway not just because of coccida but because of roundworm (which all puppies have). Once the roundworm incubates in your yard it will be there for 5 years and your kids could potentailly pick it up while playing in the yard. There should be fecal tests done 1-2 weeks after treatment is started to ensure your pup is clean of coccidia. And a full exam by your veterinarian within that 72 hour window (including a stool sample) will give you an idea if the puppy is healthy or not. Chances are, your pup will be free and clear by the time he/she is ready to go home with you. Good luck and have fun.
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April 4, 2008
dog’s littermate with lymphoma
10:31 am | 1 Comment » |Question:
My dog’s littermate (brother) has just died of Lymphoma. Is my dog now predisposed? Does that mean there is a high percentage of him getting it? Even if I knew that there was a “marker” or I knew ahead of time – there is really nothing I could do, as I understand it. He is 7 years old and in good health now. He just had blood tests. I guess there is really nothing I can do, but hope?…..Yes unfortunately it is a Golden and he is 7. I’ve checked out the longevity in the pedigrees of the grandmother, great grandparents – etc. most lived until 12-14…that is why I decided to get from this particular breeder. There is a company (PetScreen Ltd. Dr. Kevin Slater) that does screen for Lymphoma but it is not like a human where they can get remissions or “cured”..the most I understand if lucky, would be an added year – so why know? It’s a crapshoot I guess, but now I am afraid. Wish I didn’t’ know about the littermate.
Answer:
Okay, so yes Goldens as a breed are more predisposed, but that is very different from your dog having a genetic predisposition. There is no consistent documentation for a genetic predisposition (that is the genes actualy pass it on) for lymphoma. That means that just because a littermate had it has no bearing on whether or not your dog will get
it and just because your dogs parent’s didn’t have it does not mean that your’s won’t get it (I think you get my drift). I don’t know much about the screening tests and how accurate they are-so I can’t really comment further on that. But you have already done your
homework; even with diagnosis and detection, chemo and/or radiation will buy 6 months to a year and I always wonder to myself-what kind of a year is that for your dog? Lymphoma is one of the few cancers that we actually can treat, but when it comes, it comes on strong, the dogs are miserable and although chemo for dogs is not as
bad side-effect wise as it is for people it IS mearly buying time. So my advise for you is this: “don’t worry be happy”. You have a healthy dog who is just entering his seniour years. Enjoy him! Have fun with him! Give him a healthy life by keeping up with his checkups and bloodwork. Keep him a healthy weight, feed him quality food and give
him shelter and love. If you do all of this then you have done your part. The rest is out of your hands. He may get lymphoma, but he also may get diabetes or kidney problems or arthritis which can be equally debilitating and also eventually deadly. Thinking about what MAY be is only detracting from what you have today and that is a great friend. He picks up on your worry and sadness and feeds on that. We will almost certainly out-live our canine friends so enjoy the time you have together instead of worrying about what may be. All the best-now go hug your dog!
1 Comment »
April 2, 2008
so you want to get a dog?
6:46 pm | No Comments » |Although it is hard to believe, spring IS in the air. What compliments a walk in the fresh spring air more than a new puppy. You envision the puppy playing happily with your children, sleeping at your feet, keeping you company while your spouse is away. Those big cute eyes, fluffy fir, floppy ears and yes even the puppy breath. Sounds so romantic. Fast forward one year….the 75 lb dog is jumping all over anyone who comes around, the 6lb Yorkie is growling at you when you try to sit in your chair. They run off when outside, has chewed the couch and holes in the gyp-rock in the laundry room, he takes YOU for a walk (when you have time), has cost you $2,000.00 in vet bills (including the time he ate your daughter’s Barbie and it’s head got lodged in his intestine and had to be surgically removed) and your kids have lost interest and you are doing all the work. Did you think it through? Is this what you had imagined? Not likely. Sadly, the above scenario happens frequently and I can usually see it coming with the first vaccine appointment at 8 weeks. So here are some things to consider before you decide to get a dog.
1. Does a dog fit into your life? A dog needs to be walked everyday…yes EVERY, twice a day is better. If you can’t or don’t want to make time for this than I wouldn’t bother to read on. All dogs need at least basic behaviour training. No, they are not born knowing they are supposed to stay in the yard and supposed to not jump on grandma when she visits. This takes time, patience and commitment. From a teacup poodle to a mastiff they all need exercise and training (some may need more than others but they all need it). Why they have strollers and carriers for dogs is beyond me. You can’t leave a dog alone when you go on vacation-do you travel a lot? Do you have “babysitting” options? This dog will likely be with you for over a decade so consider what your life may have in store.
2. can you afford a dog? I know this one sucks because money doesn’t determine a good home, but it is a reality. There is food, training manuals or classes (if your a first time owner), grooming, and of course the biggest is vet bills (for the first year anyway). You can expect to spend hundreds of dollars for vaccines and spay/neutering in the first year alone. And that doesn’t include unexpected expenses. Pet insurance is a great option and one I wish more people would take. If money is not there for you right now then you need to reconsider your decision.
3. If the answer to the above questions is yes then you need to think about what kind of dog suits you? Do you want high energy or laid back? Do you have a lot of space or an apartment? There is a big difference between the needs of a border collie compared to a chihuahua. Do you want a purebred or a Heinz 57? If you want a purebred then you know what you are getting but you will have to be willing to pay for it. And scrimping in this department may get you more vet bills than you bargained for! DO YOUR HOMEWORK. A mix breed is just that-never quite sure what you are getting but they often make some of the best dogs with the least problems. Plus you are giving a dog a home. Please don’t pay hundreds of dollars for a mixed breed dog or a dog someone TELLS you is a purebred (unless it’s going to a shelter and it includes vaccines and spay/neuter). That drives me crazy!
Please do not buy a dog for your children or give a dog as a gift unless you are a fully willing participant. Your kids will loose interest or move out and you will be left with the work-GUARANTEED. Every week I see people who are frustrated with their dog’s behaviour, with the amount of money they have to spend because they get sick, or the dog has become more than they bargained for in every way. This, is turn, frustrates me because I really feel they did not think it through.
You can have this romantic notion of dog ownership but not without a lot of work, time and yes money. The payoffs are undeniable. The friendship and bond you can have with a well behaved dog who suits your lifestyle is one of the more rewarding relationships you will have in your life. But please, think it though.
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March 18, 2008
separation anxiety
11:14 am | 1 Comment » |Question:
I have recently got myself a boxer. He is 8 months old and we are his 3rd home!! My question is…I have decided to kennel train Charlie. Charlie hates the kennel. He has been eating at the kennel and has holes in it from all the attempts. He also urinates in it just a bit, I have never came home and found stool though. (I do let him out to do his business before I go to work) I don’t know what to do. I have treats in a kong so he has something to keep him busy as well as the hard greenie treats.
I ask my mother in law to go and let him out in which she does and she finds him upset,
and a little wet with a even bigger hole ate in the side of the kennel.
Our Valley Bulldog is not in a kennel while we are away at work…do you think Charlie is upset because of this? Should I keep Sully confined to an area where he can not go see Charlie? Sully is a pretty lazy dog when he is bored and most days when I come home I always here a thud from where Sully is jumping off the bed so I really don’t think Sully is “picking” at Charlie. (But then again he could be…I don’t know for sure.)
Charlie has been left out with Sully at times if we are just going some place quick, and
we give each of them a kong filled with treats. A few times we come home to shoes in the living room, a few times pee, and no mess, and a few times the best two dogs ever.
What do you recommend?? I am willing to try anything. I feel terrible for this dog and
what to help him.
Answer:
This behaviour would not be unexpected in this high energy breed of dog let alone this dog who is already on his third home. He has a case of separation anxiety-plain and simple. However, not necessarily so plain and simple to treat. I think that you have started with the right step-that is the crate. You may consider a type of crate that is less destrucable (like wire)-just remove his collar before you put him in so ther’s no chance of getting it stuck in the wire. However, there is going to be more you will have to do than just put him in a crate and expect him to accept it. For starters, this dog already expects the worst-abandonment. He has a fear of loosing his security, so when you go away his anxiety is heightened and when you come back he is so relieved that he probably sticks to you like glue while you are home. So here are the steps to try:
1. tape/video-tape him when you are away. This could answer your questions about whether your other dog is bugging, how long does his anxiety really last and what is he doing. For most dogs, their anxiety is worse in the first 30 minutes after you leave.
2. Exercise, exercise, exercise-this can’t be stressed enough. This is a high energy needs dog plus he has anxiety. He needs a good 30 minute run before you leave. It’s not enough to just be let out “to do his business.”
3. you need to teach your dog that he will be okay if he spends time by himself. So when he’s following you around the house you need to ignore him. When he is begging for your attention you need to ignore him. I know this sound cruel but think long term. This will include training him to sit/down and STAY while you leave the room.
4. Training is ESSENTIAL for this dog as it will give him confidence and will allow him to know what is expected of him thus reducing his anxiety.
5. Since most dogs have the most anxiety in the first 30 minutes after you leave, try to give him something to work at that will take a while-a buster cube with treats, his entire breakfast in a Kong and buster cube; peanut butter in a Kong.
6. make a list of things that you do to get ready to leave and do these things when you are NOT leaving. You want to eliminate these cues as triggers for his anxiety. Try to change it up when you do actually leave.
7. If you are using the crate, put him in the crate 15-30 minutes before you go, with his peanut butter Kong (or whatever you are using) and COMPLETELY ignore him-even if he’s barking. When you leave (using your mixed up cues) do not say goodbye, do not pat or look at him-just go. When you return, leave him in his crate for 15-30 minutes, ignore him until he has calmed down. When you let him out there should be no emotional response from you (even if he is emotional). The purpose of this is to make your coming and going non-events.
8. Do not punish your dog-EVER. Punishment heightens anxiety. Use positive training methods only for behaviour manipulation.
9. EVERYONE who is in frequent contact with your dog needs to be “on-board” with the methods you choose. If there is any inconsistency then it will not work and may make it worse because he will never know what to expect.
10. drugs can be helpful to reduce his anxiety during training. They should never be used as an only fix but merely another aid.
11. Once you get this under contro there may be setbacks in times of change. You just need to go back to the start (although usually the second time around is not so bad).
This can be a frustrating syndrome to deal with and it takes a lot of patience, consistency and time. Remember that it’s also very frustrating for your dog as he is living in this heightened state of anxiety all the time. With some work and time, life for all of you can be greatly improved. You could potentially have 10+ years of great times with this dog if you can help him over this hump in his life.
1 Comment »
March 9, 2008
euthanasia-bittersweet?
5:10 pm | 4 Comments » |Euthanasia-the humane killing of an animal. That sounds so cold and heartless, but in reality, for most cases it is anything but. When I started my journey into this profession I, of course, realized that euthanasia was going to be a part of my job. Having worked at vet clinics since I was 14 years old I had seen countless animals “put to sleep”. After the first euthanasia I saw (probably around the age of 14), I crawled into one of the big double dog kennels and cried. I was too embarrassed to let anyone see me crying because I thought I was supposed to be tough and not show any emotion. (I have since learned that this is not true.) Have I gotten used to it? Well yes. Does that make it any better or easier? Well no. Do I crawl into kennels and cry anymore? No, although sometimes I feel like it-but not having the emotions of a teenager I am able to control things a little more! But let’s just say, we have a box of tissues out back too! My role in the euthanasia has changed from an onlooker, to a holder of the vein, to now, the one who makes the fateful diagnosis and pushes the plunger of solution into the vein. My current role is by far the most emotional of the three.
But none is as emotional as the time I had to make the decision to euthanize my own dog. Just over a year ago, my 12 year old German shepherd had to be put to rest. He had struggled for months with getting around. Eventually it got to the point where he couldn’t come on walks with us. And there was nothing he loved more than that-the beach, the street, in the woods wherever….it was his very favorite thing. When we had to leave him at home when going to the beach we knew the end was coming. My husband and I had been together for 15 years and so he had been with us through most of that-before we had kids, and “real” lives and responsibilities. He was our boy. One morning I woke up and came downstairs where he was laying, he looked up at me and I could tell he was saying, “I’ve had enough”. It was that day in December that we had him put to rest in our backyard, in the sunshine, on his blanket where he loved to be. I wasn’t pushing the plunger on that one. Walks on the beach are now filled with memories and sometimes I swear I can see him running or hear him barking. I believe that his spirit is there.
The decision to euthanize your animal is a tough one and one that I see people struggle with at least a few times a week. If there is one question I can never answer it’s “what would you do?”. This is an extremely personal decision. Some people are willing to go far and do anything to try to improve the quality of life for their pet. Some people are not comfortable with ANY discomfort of their animal if it is found to have a fatal or degenerative problem. Neither is wrong. Sadly (but realistically) sometimes the decision is a financial one. As long as the animal is not suffering or at risk of hurting someone (as in the case of an extremely aggressive dog) then I will NEVER answer that question. It is only human nature to not know what to do when it comes to saying goodbye to a friend that has potentially been around for a couple of decades. I always say, think back to when your pet was feeling good and think about them now. Do THEY have a quality of life? Are THEY happy? Are they free of pain? Who are you REALLY keeping them alive for? Most of the time we are fearful of what life will be like without them and how sad WE will feel. Unfortunately, this day of death is going to come regardless of whether you make the decision to do it or not. In my mind, your responsibility, as their best friend, is to allow them to have death peacefully, painlessly and with dignity. A painless overdose injection of anesthetic is the best way to do this. Then you can move on to remember them in their youth, in their prime and as the best friend to you that they were.
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